Bronco running strong... but... why there's always a "but"?

Last Saturday we went to a little underground cenote north of Leona Vicario. We carried along Luzma, Pancho and Mario's diving gear, and had a great time cycling around...

It was a problem-free ride, yet there's something with the front wheeltrain that it's bothering me. Not sure what it is though. It's a kind of knock from the transfer case when pulling from start. And a kind of juddering from the front wheels when moving slowly at full lock. Nothing huge really but enough to keep me worried.

That's what happens when you run a 14 years old truck... I guess.

I include pictures of the pretty amazing interior of the cenote and the mighty Bronco! :)

Cycling around the peninsula...

A picture of cenote Xcanche, the end of our Saturday's ride.

Yesterday we finally hit the road again! As I hadn't done any cycling since my visit to Yaxunah, I was really looking forward to this trip.

Bronco is running great these days. After over a month without my favorite ride, I'm enjoying driving it again. The engine is better than ever, and finally having a proper right hand side window in place, is a major plus! I can even hear music while on the move! (so horrible was the wind drag before)...

In the meantime I've bought Celeste's old bicycle to have a second one for guests (Celeste would be happy to know that her old ride is well looked after and keeps being used), and I also managed to install the bicycle rack on the Bronco (after changing the jacking ball on the back bumper, which wasn't easy, as we'd to saw the previous one). BTW I bought a Thule HangOn 3B 972, which wasn't expensive and looks reasonably well made, although I still have to work on it a little bit. I'll post some pictures of it one of these days. It looks pretty neat.

Mario and I went all the way up to... guess where... Ek Balam (yet again) to look for some unspoiled and remote dirt tracks. And boy, did we find them... The heat was quite something too. It has been a very dry winter, with hardly any rain falling at all over that region of the peninsula, and you could tell. The wind, when it blew, was really hot and dry... But it was so much fun! We even found a pretty and hidden rock track, pretty technical, to break some sweat!

We ended up jumping into the cool waters of the cenote Xcanche. It's a pretty large one. The water was a bit on the green side, but it's normal for the season.

After that we went for well deserved beers and lunch in what it must be one of my favorite restaurants in the world. El Meson del Marques, in Valladolid (really nice traditional yucatecan food, set in a beautiful colonial patio).

Can't wait to do it again. It was a really cool day out! So cool that I'm even thinking about cancelling my next weekend scuba activity, just to be able to ride again...

Just a few hours left to pick up my truck...

Some pics of the new goodies...

It's been long! No truck for almost a month... I can't tell you how much I miss driving it. Can't wait to see it again. Holding my breath, hoping that everything is as I expect it to be. Will keep you all posted!

Not really a running report...

...as it can't be, the thing has been at the workshop for the last month or so.

It all started with a differential seal, then developed into a: "let's finally get a new window frame in place! and new lights! and let's fix that dent! and..."

Over a year ago, the right hand side window metal frame was destroyed beyond repair by a bunch of totally unprofessional thieves. And to locate such a spare part here in Mexico, has been really difficult, long and expensive. When I finally located one, I couldn't believe it. I was even finally getting used to that horrible wind drag noise...

But while looking for a new window, I also managed to locate new front and tailgate lights (the original ones were getting a little opaque), which will make the truck look almost as good as new! In fact one of the tailgate lights even had a wasp hive in it (!). I guess my truck had been standing still for a while before I bought it, and they came in through the missing reverse light square piece...

So tomorrow I'll have a new truck with new lights, new roof (yes, I'd to change it because of the faulty aerial seal that allowed rain water to come in and when I finally came around to fix it, it was rotten beyond salvation), new right hand side window frame, the recent right hand side dent repaired and painted, wheels aligned and balanced, car's underneath cleaned, greased and waxoiled, and a fresh change of antifreeze and oil...

What else can I get done? I could sell it and get a new truck I guess... but I do like my old rig...

Temazcalteci

I finally made it to Yaxuna. This is a little Mayan community and archaeological site around 20 miles south of Chichen Itza. There you can stay at the camp that the archeologists occupied while excavating the site.

Since the excavations undertook by the California State University (Hayward) in 1996 and 1997, the site has been pretty much abandoned to its own luck, and is very much overgrown by jungle. It is a shame because it's an impressive site, but the INAH doesn't have enough resources to open it for visitors, nor to continue the excavation works.

I spent a night at the camp as the sole visitor of the week, and was overwhelmed by the noises of the jungle at nigth, as well as by the amazingly clear skies. I was even invited to a wedding! In the morning I'd arranged with Sr. Ignacio, a local, a tour of the ruins and what I saw, did not dissappoint me at all. We went by bike, and that was the best part of it. To be able to ride through those Sac-Bec's was pretty neat.

I'm writing all these because I published a long entry about the Temazcal rituals among the Mayan people, and it happens that Yaxuna is one of the few places where remains of a dedicated Temazcal permanent structure have been found.

A round stone oval building with a big hole in it was found by the archeologist. And according to my local guide, this sculpture was found right in the middle. If that it's correct, then this must be Temazcalteci or Mother Earth. The goddess of the Temazcal.

I was very excited to see it, and also quite shocked that such a treasure can be abandoned in the open. It's made of soft limestone, and I estimate that or INAH does something soon to preserve it, or it will "melt" beyond the point of recognition in just a couple of years. It is quite damaged already, and it's just such a shame... It's a link with one of the very few Mayan rites that we can still celebrate, and it will be such a loss if it disappears one day...

It was the perfect weekend adventure: I drove over 400 miles on nice country lanes, did some good cycling, and met a very genuine bunch of people. What else can you ask for?

Running Report

It's a long time that I don't post any updates on Willoby Bronco (yes, I know: it is totally childish to put names to cars. Isn't it? Well mine has, and I don't care what you have to say about it). I didn't have time to post any updates, because well... I was driving it!

February has been a busy month for Bronco, and together we've covered over 2,000 miles all around the Yucatan Peninsula. We've been down to Tulum twice, plus another trip down there with Frank and Ros at the wheel, we drove to Izamal and Rio Lagartos too, and I finally made it to Yaxuna's ruins and Mayan community.

Bronco drove like a dream, except for a long drive in the middle of a horrible storm... mud tires and concrete motorways don't mix well. The thing was almost undriveable. Not much fun really.

Problem is that last weekend after returning from Tulum I noticed that there was freshly spilled oil all over my rear right fender... (see pic) coming from the differential. Not good. But easy enough to fix. I recently replaced the rear axle shafts, so I'm guessing that one of the seals gave out...

I'm taking care of this, so I hope to be back on the road soon!

Just when you thought that your car restoration was nearly done...

...somebody goes and hits a pillar while parking it. I'm now thinking about painting the whole truck, as poor old Bronco also received some parking dents on the right hand side door.

Is it worth it? Absolutely not. Am I nuts? Absolutely yes!

A night at the temazcal

Last Saturday I went to my first Temazcal with Kenali and Mario. It was set in the middle of the jungle, close to a cenote. I didn’t really know what to expect from it, but what I can tell you is that I loved it and can’t wait to do it again.

The fact that it was set in isolated wilderness (as opposed to a luxurious Spa in one of those 5 star hotels) made it really special. It was like returning back in time and embracing the path of our forefathers.

For me it was a very impressive evening, surrounded by friends, by good spirits and by beautiful nature. It was a night to remember.

A Temazcal is basically a Mexican Sweat Bath which is, in many aspects, very similar to the Lakota People (one of the seven related Sioux Tribes) rituals.

Vestiges in the Mayan world have been found in Palenque (Chiapas) and in Piedras Negras (Guatemala). However “temazcal” it’s actually not a Mayan word at all, it’s Nahuatl (the ancient language of the Aztecs).

A temazcal is a round hut, built with 16 vertical poles (representing the 16 sacred spirits of the Lakota People) and covered with leaves or even the skin of animals. The 4 bands of branches that cover the bath represent the 4 worlds: mineral, vegetal, animal and human (and by correlation the physical, mental, spiritual and sacred worlds).

In the center of the Temazcal there is a hole, representing Earth’s belly button, where you place the hot stones (volcanic usually). And where in ancient times an image of Temazcalteci, the goddess of the sweat bath would be placed. This was a Nahuatl culture goddess, regarded by them as the Mother of the Gods, or also referred to as “our grandmother” or Mother Earth. It was the principal of all Nahualt deities. The cult of this goddess extended all through Mesoamerica, and parallel cults can be found among Mayans, Zapotecans and even Mixtecans.

The Temazcal wasn’t only a religious ceremony. Cosmology played a broad role, not only on the way the bath was constructed, but also on the way it was used. There are 4 distinct steps on the rite (also called “doors” as at the end of each, the temazcal’s door is opened to allow for more hot stones to be placed at the middle of the bath). These are: earth, wind, fire and water.

A Temazcal should in fact be oriented taking into account these four elements. The fire which heats the stones has to be placed towards the east (the sun raises from the east), as the Temazcal it’s in fact the representation of Mother Earth's womb (and Father Sun is the light that fertilizes Mother Earth's womb). The temazcal’s door has to face south (or right of Sun’s path) which is the way of the dead, that begins at birth and ends at death.

All starts with the Man of Fire, heating up the stones on the sacred fire, over four logs placed east to west and south to north. The women usually enter before the men, but before that, they are all purified by Copal's smoke (represented on my first image, at the top). After the purification, mud can be applied to the skin, to help the sweating (as in my second picture, at the bottom). Before entering the temazcal a little bit of tobacco or other herbs are burned on the fire and offered to the four cardinal points.

When you enter the Temazcal, you are returning to your mother’s womb. As such, the entrance is small, low and dark, and the interior is warm and humid. Temazcaltoci, or Mother Earth, should be placed in the middle, as she’s our beloved mother, worried about our wellbeing and health. She will receive us inside her womb to cure us (spiritually and physically).

Upon entering the temazcal, each person must ask permission to enter (for himself and for all his relatives), as you can never enter the temazcal alone. Why? that's easy! Because you always carry within your heart all those people that are, or have been, an important part of your life.

Inside the darkness, the prayers, the songs, the music of the drums or the perpetual reverberation of the metal “cuencos” will assist you in your journey to heal yourself. Our ritual lasted well over 3 hours, but it didn’t seem long at all. It was like time stayed still, like if we were out of time and in another dimension.

Finally exiting the temazcal represents to be born again, and abandon the darkness, while leaving our worries and illnesses behind.

We ended up by jumping into a gorgeous cenote. I couldn't possibly imagine a better ending...

You may be asking yourself if it did work for me. Did I leave all my sorrows behind me? The answer is positive. Yes I did feel much better after the ritual.

Back on the road

Good old Bronco it's back on service duty, just in time for Frank and Ros visit next week.

We changed the 3 engine mounts, including (look at the black greasy thing) the transmission's one. They were pretty worn out by now, as you can see from the pictures, and as a result the ride is now better than ever before. Best of all, the horrible metallic knock when pulling from start has disappeared completely. And I can't be happier, as no more whining noises are coming from the wheel's hubs either.

Next items on my list are to fix the window, the ceiling leak (the antenna seal lets rain water in), balance the wheels, apply a layer of waxoyle to the chassis, change all four light lenses, etc, etc... (do you get the idea?).

Good thing: at least mechanically, it's now running better than ever before.

A new family member just arrived...

This is my new bicycle, an Alubike Dropper. I just received it last Thursday. I bought it because the components are pretty good (it has Rock Shox suspensions with remote lock out, Tektro Lyra disc brakes, Mavic XM wheels, etc) and the price was much better than a comparable Fuji. It's built in Mexico, hence the lower price. It's a rather cool bike and I hope it will serve me well. Will let you know how that one goes. For more info on those check: http://www.alubike.com.mx/

I'm trying hard to get back in shape, and this is part of that plan. Also many times, when I went around with my Bronco, visiting remote archeological sites, I used to miss having a mountain bike to venture through the impenetrable maze of "sacbes" and little dirt tracks surrounding the ruins. This bicycle will most probably permanently live on the back of my truck.

There's a very active off-road cycling group here in Cancun. They meet every Sunday and spend the day exploring different routes around the peninsula. I haven't ride in ages, so I'm a bit unsure about joining them right now, but depending on how determined I wake up tomorrow, I may join them for my first ride... Wish me luck!

1995 Ford Bronco Sales Brochure

A little gift for Bronco's lovers (this one it's actually pretty hard to come by).

Time for an oil change!

It has over 120,000+ miles on it, yet I still use Mobil 1 Synthetic Oil 5W-40 which is not precisely cheap in Mexico (see the little silver bottles at the bottom of the picture). I do know that the recommended oil for an EFi 302 W Bronco is 10W-30, but with most of my driving done at over 40 degrees Celsius, I can use the increased viscosity spectrum of a 5W-40.

Works for me at least, the engine is on top-notch condition and pulling strong!

Shame about the oil's price though...

The OJ Simpson Mobile

This is how my Ford Bronco is known among my friends, as it's the same color as the infamous truck used by OJ Simpson on the famous "Bronco Chase". Only that mine it's a 95 (not a 93) and it looks meaner with its big black bumpers and Ramsey winch. To see a video of the chase, check this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HcyyCi2b2AY

I bought mine almost 2 years ago, I saw it parked on the side of the road, and couldn't help it. I took this picture on my first excursion with it. I always wanted to have a 4x4 and this one was perfect for me. Big, ageing, thirsty and brutal. What else can you ask from your truck?

It has the "small" (by US standards) block 302 EFI V8 engine (virtually indestructible), manual transfer case (so much more reliable than the 2 buttons) and some 122,000 miles on it.

And since I bought it I've changed all its 4 tires, the computer (or engine management system), the 8 (internal and external) ball joints (I've done it twice already, supposedly), the tailgate window motor, brake pads (3 times, or at least that's what I want to believe), I've fixed the AC... and a few other things that I can't remember right now.

Even today, as I write these words, Bronco is resting at the workshop waiting to have its engine mountings replaced (lately I've been hearing a loud knock while puling from stop). No idea of when I'll have it back, or what the cost will be...

I'm also waiting for a replacement door vent window to finally have a quiet and dry Bronco (they tried to steal the truck once while in El Cuyo in Northern Quintana Roo a year ago and they destroyed the window seals, glass and frame in the process). And I almost forgot! I also have the new tail lights and headlamps that I bought last week waiting to be installed...

It's more a rolling restoration project than a running truck really. But there are some positive news: the engine it's in beautiful condition and pulls very strongly and faultless, it's also fully original with no other mod than a front end mounted winch, and if all goes according to plan... I'll have it all done within 2, or maximum 3, weeks.

Is it worth it? If you consider that I could have bought an almost new (2 years old) Ford F150 4x4 (a Ford Lobo FX4 in Mexico) for the same money I ended up spending on the Bronco... the answer it's a clear no. But there are other ways of seeing it. The Bronco was the last of a kind, and when it runs well it's a beautiful thing to drive. It's harsh as hell but it has loads of character too. Its body lines are pure and nothing short of impressive (it's a huge square thing). Plus the engine sounds great.

There's definitely something very cool about this old truck, something that makes you feel like if you were about to live an adventure every time you hit the road with it...

Just a side note. After writing this, I did a Google search for "Bronco Days" (the title of this blog) and an interesting post came by. It's from Chris Baron, at the writersmonthly.com site, and it's titled "Letters to my 8th Grade Teacher / Bronco Days" If you're a Bronco fan, you have to read it. It's under: http://www.writersmonthly.com/pages/wm_library/chris_baron/bronco_days_suvs_morality.html